Woodburning Stove flues

Flue - What a Scorcher…

The actual flue ought to ideally be the unseen andunheard component of your woodburning stove system.

If you're able to observe smoke, it might have difficulties, and if it is possible to perceive crackling up there, you've got a chimney fire so you definitely are having issues.

There is nothing in legal requirements to say you need to utilize a professional installer, but you are highly advised to leave it to the experts.

It really is too unsafe to do it yourself or depend upon uninformed builders.

Having had to expensively rebuild a system that had been made out of unlawful galvanised flue pipe tubing that is going to discharge poisonous fumes, this article writer talks whereof he knows.

There are British Standards and also Building Regulations regulating flues as well as chimneys, before we get into that, the good thing is that the multifuel stove manufacturer should have provided an exit hole that is definitely made to be the proper measurement for your unit.

All you have to do is steer clear of any kind of attraction to scale back the dimensions (typically the actual diameter as most stove flues are usually circular) of the flue at any point.

Retain the dimensions dictated by the maker. And never increase it because that will create problems as well.

A number of makers provide you with a selection of flue exits: at the top or out the back.

Utilize the top one if at all possible, in case your stove is to sit in front of the chimney line then your other can be a useful selection.

In which case, 150mm is a maximum horizontal distance that the pipe should travel.

Flues devised for stoves are available in two types.

If you have a free standing traditionally-styled stove, the flue will be on display in the room and you will want to employ a vitreous enamel-coated single-skin flue.

It may be matched to the stove, together with matt or gloss black typically the most popular.

Other colours can be chosen, and also the traditional cast iron are offered also.

A single skin flue is alright for inside the room however as soon as it gets in the chimney where ambient temperature is lower, it can cause a cold spot which ruins the draught that is essential for good burning.

The maximum length for an enamelled flue will be 1.8 metres but in practice you need to hook it up to an insulated flue or liner as soon as it actually leaves the room.

By no means allow it to go through a ceiling as it is a fire risk, or utilize it outside the home.

For the serious in-chimney area, and for the whole length of the flue in the case of built-in ‘cassette’ stoves, make use of a twin-walled, insulated stainless stee system.

This will normally have a high-quality 316 quality inner, 25mm of ceramic mat insulation and then a 304 grade stainless steel outer skin.

The actual cases will be continuously welded on the seams, and the sections of tubing lock to one another: always install with the spigot end downward in order that it should go within the sections below.

Up, up and away

Your mantra regarding exhausting a woodburner is: keep it straight.

Preferably, employ a uncomplicated vertical flue of enough length.

In which case you should ensure an effective pull in the chimney including a cleanly burning fire.

When that’s not possible, in that case have no in excess of two bends, creating one offset of the flue.

The actual bend should preferably not more than 30 degrees; the maximum permitted is 45 degrees from the up and down.

Make an attempt to go a minimum of 500m up and down before the first bend.

Unless ones stove has a means of allowing you to easily access the flue to clean and evaluation, which is improbable because the top air contro flap usually gets in the way, and then Building Regulations need you to use a purpose-built entry door within the chimney.

You’ll be grateful the first time you've got a blockage or perhaps tar build-up…

Without the need of getting into the full chimney legislation, that are another topic, your flue is going to have to be a minimum height of 4.5 metres from the top of the stove.

If you're able to, stay away from it going up the outside of the house, in addition to insulate any kind of void within the chimney to maintain the flue warm; and if it is going through wood flooring or between roofing timbers, make sure it has a firestop at this stage for protection.

A twisted firestarter…

So why do you get chimney fires?

They tend to begin at bends inside the flue. These are generally weak spots exactly where just about any build-up connected with creosote tar residue will probably have a tendency to arise.

The causes you get build-up include sluggish burning, using green wood that has never been seasoned, and using wood combined with coal.

The former gives off moisture, the second sulphur: the merged result is sticky as well as nasty and also being extremely corrosive.

Avoid no matter what. Woodburners are not designed for fossil fuel firing.

While you are having your flue installed, do not let your installer to miss the other outlets that could be accessible, especially in your built-in stove.

These may include a vent to allow heat to escape from the top of the boiler in order to warm the space: and maybe one more to allow the heating of the air in a second space.

Read the specifications with your provider.

And finally, use the help of your own chimney sweep.

You can use a Chimney Cleaning Log to aid disengage tar, however in the end the only accredited approach to correctly cleaning a flue is by mechanical brushing by using a brush of the identical size.

British Standards:

BS 4543 regulates factory-made chimneys and their flues

BS 6461 deals with flues for appliances including Woodburners

Author's Bio: 

The UKs Woodburning Stoves Shop, Woodburners and Multifuel Stoves, Traditional and Contemproary Stoves as well as Flue Pipes and Accessories